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HomeTown Paris blog offers you a selection of articles devoted to the destination Paris, its news, culture, activities and of course, its people
The legacy of Soul Food in Paris
Soul food, a taste of the South of the United States If you are told "American fried chicken", what do you think about? No, no, not the fast-food brand of Kentucky ... The fried chicken is one of the pillars of the soul food, that like soul music, belongs to the culture of African-Americans. Soul food is the rich and copious family cuisine of the south of the United States, the flavors of childhood remembered with stars in the eyes. It is also a cuisine that carries the terrible fate of American slaves: inspired by their saved African heritage as best they can, despite their uprooting and suffering, Soul food is a popular cuisine, with ingredients and humble preparations always invigorating. The least we can say is that this is not cuisine for people in a diet. We find the fried chicken with fermented milk, of course, but also the sweet corn bread, sweet potatoes and fried plantain, and among others "hush puppies". Traditional soul food makes great use of lard... However, there are also typical vegetables like okra, forage cabbage or collard greens. You can also add the authentic chitterlings, a stew of guts... At first glance, nothing to do with the much-praised refinement of French cuisine - and yet, thanks to particular historical circumstances, African-American soul food has seen its splendid hours in Paris... Discovered from a forgotten episode of the Franco-American history and its descendants. Chez Haynes, The restaurant of the African-American community In Paris, during the roaring Twenties that followed the horrors of the Second World War were years of liberation in more ways than one. For the African American GI soldiers who came to fight in Europe, the discovery of Paris was also the discovery of a city which, although it was of course not exempt from racism, gave them much more freedom than their native country. At that time, segregation was still in force in the southern states. The struggle for civil rights eventually led to their abolition, but not until 1965. In France, on the other hand, nothing prevented a black man from marrying a white Frenchwoman, and that was what Leroy Haynes did. After the armistice, this athletic American stayed in France instead of returning to the United States. He met Gabrielle Lecarbonnier, whom he married in 1949. They opened Gabby and Haynes on rue Manuel. After their divorce, Leroy re-opens Chez Haynes on rue Clauzel, at the bottom of the butte Montmartre. His restaurant on rue Manuel became the high place of American black culture in Paris. Intellectuals and black artists, visiting or settling in Paris, met there: The writers James Baldwin, Richard Wright and Chester Himes, painter Beauford Delaney, musicians Louis Armstrong, Sidney Bechet, Cab Calloway, Count Basie and Miles Davies. A colorful personality, Leroy Haynes is also an actor in his hours and plays in several gangster movies. We see him in Three rooms in Manhattan, directed by Marcel Carné, in 1965, and in a film by Michel Audiard in 1971: Le cri du cormoran, le soir au-dessus des jonques. Paris an orphan of soul food? Not so fast! After the disappearance of Leroy Haynes in 1986, his third wife Maria, of Portuguese origin, continues to serve at the restaurant Haynes the cuisine that made the restaurant famous. For 23 years she kept intact the flame of soul food, while trying to renew the menu by offering Brazilian dishes. Unfortunately, the great hours of Chez Haynes now belong to the past: the Afro-American community in Paris is no longer numerous and the mythical evenings where black Power writers and jazzmen met were no more than a memory. The restaurant closes its doors in 2009, and with it turns an important page of Afro-American history in Paris. For a few years, not much new in American cooking. Fast-foods continued their inexorable expansion, offering ill-informed Frenchmen the illusion of eating "truly" American. At the time, we could have consoled ourselves by trying to bring home another dish of the soul food, which reflects the mixed history of the United States: the cornbread. This bread was originally a Native American recipe, which was adopted and enriched, to become a typical American recipe, particularly prized in Southern cuisine. The corn bread is traditionally made with bacon fat, but you can quite try a lighter version of cornbread! Too often the French still believe that there is no American gastronomy - the prejudices that make the hamburger-fries the national dish remain. This symbol of "junk food" detested by gourmet Gaulois has however little to do with the American cuisine of gourmets. And if the fried chicken may seem to some a bit too similar to a certain fast food menu, it is necessary to get rid of these ideas. In recent years, young American restaurateurs have had the audacity (some ghastly spirits would say effrontery) to come as far as the land of France to show what the Yankees (nickname French give to Americans) are capable of. This is the case of Chief Braden Perkins, born in New Orleans - one could say that soul food is part of its genetic heritage. After the success of his first restaurant Hidden Kitchen, he opens in 2011 a new restaurant, Verjus, always with his partner Laura Adrian. Verjus is a chic restaurant whose tasting menu changes with the seasons and inspirations of the chef, and in a more informal wine bar. Fried Chicken with ribot milk, cabbage salad and jalapeno peppers is a revisited and more refined version of the big classic. Moreover, Verjus's success not contradicting itself, Braden Perkins recidivated with Ellsworth, a little further on the same street. Again, we find an authentic fried chicken accompanied by marinated vegetables, because we do not change a team that wins so well. Restaurant Verjus - 52, rue de Richelieu, 75001 - Monday to Friday from 7 pm to 11 pm - Pyramides, Palais Royal, Bourse or Quatre Septembre metro Restaurant Ellsworth - 34, rue de Richelieu, 75001 - opening hours: lunch, 12:15 to 14:15; Dinner, 7 pm to 10.30 pm; Brunch, 11:30 am to 3 pm - metro Pyramides or Palais Royal The soul food revisited: The African and Caribbean heritage at the time of crossbreeding Moreover, faithful to its African and Caribbean roots, soul food is reborn in Paris in a version that could be called "French". Inspired by the inspiration of their own heritage, French restaurateurs do not hesitate to present their personal version of this family cuisine. It would not be the first time that the French, spurred by American fashions, are encouraged to rediscover a neglected part of their own heritage. Gumbo Yaya has opted to specialize in: fried chicken and authentically American waffles, the combo is so popular that it is not uncommon to have to wait an hour to be served ... Yet, according to guests, the Game is worth the candle, and the long wait is forgotten when you bite into the crispy waffles, sprinkled with various sauces. Lionel, the owner, worships fried chicken with fermented milk, in memory of his American aunts who fed him with soul food in Macon, near Atlanta. Gumbo Yaya - 3, rue Charles Bobin, 75010 - Opening hours: from 12h to 14h30 and from 19h30 to 22h30, closed on Saturdays and Sundays - Colonel Fabien metro. The New Soul Food truck, on the other hand, presents a resolutely melting-pot cuisine, "afrodisiac" according to the words of its creator, Rudy Laine. There we find the sacrosanct chicken, but revisited in sub-Saharan or Caribbean fashion. Rudy's Cameroonian and Guadeloupian origins inspire flavors, braised chicken curry sauce coco vanilla, plantains peanut sauce, cassava attiéké sauce yassa, or the fish miondo safou. We follow greedily the food truck in Paris, but again, the greedy have given themselves the word and it will be necessary to arrive early to avoid long lines! New Soul Food food truck - often in front of the mk2 Library, find the schedule on the website – the location: mk2 Library, metro Bibliothèque François Mitterrand or Quai de la Gare As for Niébé, the name of the restaurant celebrates the cornille, a bean called "black eyed pea" in the United States, which is also an integral part of soul food. Chef Rosilène Vitorino draws soul food to Brazil and its tropical flavors. The restaurant offers its menu in two versions, classic and vegan - what allow vegetarians to discover these unique flavors, without fried chicken and lard! Restaurant Niébé - 16 rue de la Grande-Chaumière, 75006 - open from Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 3 pm and from 7.30 pm to midnight - Vavin metro
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The legacy of Soul Food in Paris
Temporary Exhibitions not to be missed in Paris
They will soon close their doors, definitively drawing the curtain over rare works of art or unpublished collections. Many major exhibitions end in Paris will end in February or March, do not delay any longer to walk the paths of Parisian museums! To the Louis Vuitton Foundation From October 2016 until March 5th, 2017, the glass liner signed Frank Gehry hosts the prestigious collection of modern art by the Russian patron Sergei Shchukin. The exhibition "Icons of Modern Art: The Shchukin Collection" is deployed on all the museum's spaces created by Bernard Arnault, CEO of the LVMH group: you will discover 160 masterpieces among which paintings and sculptures Of Braque, Cézanne, Degas, Gauguin, Maillol, Marquet, Matisse, Monet, Pissarro, Picasso, Renoir and Signac ... but also the creations of Russian avant-garde artists such as Malévitch, Kliou, Tatline, Rodchenko... At the Palais Galliera Who carries what? This is the question asked by the Paris fashion museum, Palais Galliera, through the “Anatomy of a collection” that ends on February 12, 2017. From the dress worn in royal courts to the blue collard attire, between anonymous and celebrities, The exhibition unites about one hundred pieces of clothing and accessories to decipher the fashion from eighteenth century to the present day. A real journey through time, which traces the customs of the court of Marie-Antoinette or unveils the favorite outfits of Audrey Hepburn or Sarah Bernhardt... Modern art Museum of the city of Paris Until March 5th, the Museum of Modern Art devotes an exhibition to Bernard Buffet (1928-1999), one of the most famous French painters of the 20th century but also one of the most controversial. About one hundred art pieces are presented, retracing his favorite themes: clowns of course, but also religious, mythological or literary cycles. At the Musée d’Orsay This following exhibition also ends the 5th of March, about Frédéric Bazille held at the Musée d'Orsay, which highlights the work of this young artist who died in combat at only 28 years of age but who in a few years inherited us some amazing masterpieces. A genius in the making, he was at the origin of Impressionism. Organized in a thematic and chronological way at the same time, the journey combines the works of Bazille with those of his contemporaries such as Delacroix, Courbet, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Fantin-Latour, Guigou, Scholderer and Cézanne. At the musée des Arts Décoratifs We no longer present Jean Nouvel, a world-renowned French architect, who, beyond his buildings, was also distinguished by his realization of furniture and everyday objects. It is in this lesser-known facet of the architect that the Museum of Decorative Arts unveils until February 12th, exhibiting his pieces of iconic furnitur
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Temporary Exhibitions not to be missed in Paris
Romantic Paris for Valentine’s Day
What city would be more romantic than Paris to declare its flame? The capital is full of nooks and crannies with old-fashioned charm, bucolic parks, intimate restaurants... so many places perfect for a head to head love. For Valentine's Day, follow our guide to the most romantic secret addresses in Paris... The museum of the Romantic life Its name sums up the place well. This museum (free!) Is dedicated to the current of romanticism, but is above all a place out of time, favorable to romantic walks. Beyond the art pieces of the artist Ary Scheffer, former occupant of the place and the collection dedicated to the woman of letters George Sand, it is the bucolic setting that attracts visitors. A small paved walkway, a vast house, a flower garden, and yet, you are still in Paris! Musée de la Vie romantique – Hôtel Scheffer-Renan - 16 rue Chaptal, 75009 Metro: Pigalle or Saint-Georges Perched on a tree This is an ideal place for a romantic evening. You can dine seated on swings or perched in small suspended huts or tree houses. Intimacy guaranteed! Make sure to book in advance to make sure you have a seat on one of the two swing tables. You also have the opportunity to enjoy massages in a back room before or after your meal. A truly unusual address for a memorable one on one! Sur un Arbre Perché – 1 rue du 4 septembre 75002 Metro: Bourse The bridge of Parc Monceau In the 8th arrondissement of Paris (and on the border of the chic part of the 17th arrondissement), Parc Monceau is one of the most pleasant gardens in Paris. A garden at the same time familial and romantic, created in the second half of the 18th century as a garden of illusions and pleasures. The small Venetian bridge that hides there is the landmark of lovers, and is very romantic for a photo shoot for two... The wall of I love you Hidden in the small square Jehan Rictus near the metro Abbesses, on the Montmartre hill, the wall of "I love you" was created to represent the reconciliation of the people. If the walls and the borders generally have the function of dividing, the wall of the "I love you" is instead a place of brotherhood. Dedicated to love, this work has become a meeting place for lovers all over the world, who come to read the 311 "I love you" written in 250 different languages. The Pont des Arts and the Pont de l’Archevêché Tradition wanted lovers to hang on the Pont des Arts and the Pont de l'Archevêché, more or less imposing padlocks, on which were engraved their names or initials, to leave a trace of their love in the capital of romanticism... But unfortunately, the weight of the padlocks threatening to damage the bridges, the padlocks were removed in 2015. These two bridges remain however places of emblematic walks for lovers, and corners of picnics for two very appreciated by couples. Gazebo at the Buttes Chaumont Like all Gazebos, the one from the Buttes Chaumont is a fairly quiet place in winter, because you have to have the courage to climb up the 173 steps despite the cold! Located on an island which is accessed by a bridge or a footbridge, it is twice isolated. With its Italian temple allures (from which it is directly inspired), it offers a view of Montmartre, the Eiffel Tower and more simply on the 19th arrondissement that surrounds it. A really romantic spot where to hug to warm up! The boats of bois de Boulogne For courageous sailors or delayed lovers, the boats of the Bois de Boulogne, to be rented from February 15th, are perfect. Enjoy a stroll on the water, away from the hustle and bustle, to share a nice moment for two in the green lungs of the capital.
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Romantic Paris for Valentine’s Day
Discovering the Parisian markets…
It cannot be any more typical to discover the bubbling heart of a city by diving into the neighborhood markets. The Parisians are particularly attached to this legacy of Old Paris, and walk every weekend through the alleys of the 82 food markets of the capital. To live an authentic Parisian experience, follow our guide to the discovery of the most convivial or remarkable spots! Traditional and well priced The Marché d’Aligre, abundant In the heart of the 12th arrondissement, the Aligre market, set in the middle of a charming square surrounded by cafés and shops, is reputable. A few years ago it was one of the cheapest markets in Paris but now it has been "classy-fied" recently but remains a genuine and abundant market. Stalls of local fruits and vegetables of different provenance and market antiques come together, for the happiness of a varied clientele coming from the 4 corners of the capital. As soon as the sun appears, the surrounding terraces fill up, adding to the friendliness of the place. The Marché d’Aligre – 3 Place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris – Metro: Ledru-Rollin – Open every day (except on Mondays) from 7h00 to 14h The Marché de Belleville, cosmopolitan The best value in Paris for this market where all cultures and nationalities come together. Next to first-class stands of good quality and impeccable freshness, we also find a lot of second-class products, the unsolds of Rungis, at prices that are unbeatable. At the end of the market, the prices are intensly reduced, in an electric and friendly atmosphere. The Marché de Belleville – 63 Boulevard de Belleville, 75011 Paris – Metro: Couronnes or Belleville – Open Tuesday and Friday from 7H00 to 14H30 The Marché de Barbès, The best priced It is under the aerial metro where this large market is installed, the cheapest of Paris, whose motto could be "1 euro per kilo! ". Result: the atmosphere is more crowded to stroll in than the market i.e.; The atmosphere is frenetic; Agoraphobes abstain. We leave a bit bruised due to pushing and feet stepping, certainly, but with three bags full for 15 euros. A multi-ethnic capital of the capital! The marché de Barbès – Boulevard de la Chapelle, 75018 Paris – Metro: Barbes-Rochechouart – Open on Wednesday from 7h to 14h30 and on Saturday from 7h to 15h The Posh The Marché des Batignolles, in the honor of Organic The market of Batignolles is the benchmark of ecologists and followers of organic items. This large market has a special charm with its wide selection of fruits and vegetables and its merchants who interact with their regular customers. A bit of militancy and a lot of advice brought by these very nature traders. We talk about sprouted seeds, vegetable milks and gluten-free bread, and the more daring will test a juice of freshly pressed herbs. At the Batignolles, it's organic, it's good, and it's expensive! The quality, and the trend, undoubtedly have a price... The marché des Batignolles – 64 rue des Batignolles, 75017 Paris – Metro: Rome, La fourche Open on Saturdays from 9h to 14h The Marché des enfants rouges, the oldest in Paris In a quiet corner of the Marais district, you will find the oldest food market in Paris, the Enfants Rouges. The market was founded in 1629 and was named in honor of children from the orphanage, who were dressed in red uniforms. Today, we find fresh food, but also and above all stands of cooked dishes from the 4 corners of the world. A gigantic open-air dance hall, you can sit here with your family or friends to taste Moroccan, Japanese, Lebanese, Chinese or Caribbean dishes. Success obliged, it is necessary to arrive early to find a table... The Marché des Enfants Rouges – 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris – Metro: Filles du calvaire – Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: from 8h30 to 13h and from 16h to 19h30 – Friday, Saturday: from 8h30 to 13h and from 16h to 20h – Sunday: from 8h30 to 14h The chic The Marché Saxe-Breteuil, The most beautiful view This magnificent market which stretches along the Avenue de Saxe offers a superb view of the Eiffel Tower. Very pleasant, not too crowded and with a wide choice, this market offers high quality products, at prices adequate to the chic of the neighborhood and the clientele. A beautiful walk very close to the Champ de Mars. The Marché de Saxe-Breteuil – Avenue de Saxe, 75007 Paris – Metro: Ségur –Thursday and Saturday from 7h to 14h30 The marché Raspail Organic, again more organic, and especially fashionable, 2 steps from the Bon Marché, the most exclusive department store in the capital. The Raspail market is the best known, oldest and most classical organic market in Paris. And also one of the most expensive, but the products offered are of excellent quality, Whether you are looking for food, beauty products or maintenance products, everything here is guaranteed GMO free, pesticide free and not tested on animals. The marché Raspail – Boulevard Raspail, 75006 Paris – Metro: Sèvres-Babylone –Sunday (9h00 to 14h00) The originals The puces de Saint-Ouen, Paradise of antique hunting Clothing, antiques, vintage objects ... you can find everything in this flea market, among the most famous in the world. Enthusiasts of antique hunting and passionates of flea markets will find their happiness in Saint-Ouen, between small affordable rooms and monuments of design. Porcelain, musical instruments, antique linens, design icons, bird cages, military uniforms, diversity is well there on 7 hectares and 1300 shops on the market. An appreciable thing, the salesmen are quite discreet and let you look around in peace. The puces de Saint-Ouen – Rue Jules Vallès, 75018 Paris (between the Porte de St-Ouen and the Porte de Clignancourt) – Metro: Porte de Clignancourt – Open Saturday (9h00 to 18h00), Sunday (10h00 to 18h00) Monday (11h00 to 18h00) The Marché Saint-Pierre, The temple of fabric It's not a market, but it's just like one, and it bears the name. The market Saint Pierre, on the Montmartre hill, is the temple of fabric. Of all the materials, all the colors, at all prices, small creative hands and famous designers invest this store of 6 floors to find inspiration and get to work. The Marché Saint-Pierre – Rue Charles Nodier, 75018 Paris – Open from Monday to Saturday (10h00 to 18h30) The Marché aux fleurs et aux oiseaux, Poetry in its raw state In the heart of the Ile de la Cité, 2 steps away from Notre-Dame de Paris, an island of poetry and sweetness ... The market consists of two large buildings and dozens of small stands, in which roses, orchids, Lilies, tulips, bulbs, bird cages and books on gardening are sold by enthusiasts. If the market is accessible every day, the salesmen of the stands are there only on Sundays. They sell pigeons, parakeets and many other exotic birds. The marché aux fleurs et aux oiseaux – Louis Lépine, Ile de la Cité, 75004 Paris – Metro: Cité – Open every day
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Discovering the Parisian markets…
Night Immersion in the center of Paris
Expert night owl, do you dream to discover Paris when tourists are asleep and the streets deserted? The darkness that shadows buildings and gives them a mystical look fascinates you? Then follow our best monuments and unusual places that open their doors at nightfall... The Basilica of Sacré-Coeur Overlooking Montmartre, the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur is the second most visited Catholic building in France, after Notre-Dame of Paris. Continuously open from 6 am to 10.30 pm, its white domes and interior frescoes are magnified at dusk by lights. By visiting the basilica at night, you will enjoy an exceptional panoramic view of the capital asleep but yet sparkling. For the catholic among you, the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur is also accessible throughout the night via the prayer relay that goes on. Housed at the Home reception of the Basilica, the faithful follow one another to pray throughout the night. The Louvre To discover the Louvre's masterpieces from a different angle, take advantage of the night openings on Wednesday and Friday evening: unprecedented guided tours are organized, to browse the collections under optimal conditions. The Seine by night If the riverboat cruise is one of the classics to any visit to the capital, cruising Paris at night offers another look at the city, with its bridges and illuminated monuments. Paris then takes on the aspect of an immense décor of cinema. Paris at the time of crime Dark alleys, lugubrious squares and cutthroat passages, discover another face of Paris during a nocturnal tour organized by “Paris à pas contés”: the Paris of crimes. This original and frightening guided tour will allow you to admire the neighborhoods of the Louvre, Châtelet and the Ile de la Cité under the firmament, to discover forgotten sordid facts. The international market of Rungis For lovers of French gastronomy, the market of Rungis is paradise. It is the only market in the world to present such a wide range of fresh produce: fish, meat, dairy products and cheeses, fruits and vegetables and cut flowers, which are all transported by trucks every day on some 230 hectares of market area. In Rungis, each year, food alone accounts for 1,500,000 tons, and 32 million flower boots are cut. And this very special and professional world now opens its doors to the general public for visits that start at 5 a.m: you will visit the pavilions of meat, dairy products, fruits and vegetables and cut flowers, to top it off you will finish your immersion with an invigorating brunch. A unique experience! The Cité universitaire of Paris The Cité universitaire of Paris is one of those unknown places that deserve to be seen. It is the whole world that has been invited to the capital, thanks to these university residences that welcome students from the different corners of the world. Sweden, Japan, Argentina, India... the pavilions come together in a joyful blend of architecture. Some houses have been built or furnished by illustrious architects, such as Le Corbusier or Jean Prouvé. The Cité organizes guided tours, day and night. Thanks to the darkness of the night, projections made on the facades of some houses invite you to discover the history of renowned artists, former residents or not, whose work still nourishes the humanist spirit of the place. Meeting with Senghor, Salgado, Cortázar and the Japanese painter Foujita.
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Night Immersion in the center of Paris