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The Musée Carnavalet, museum of the history of Paris, closed until the end of 2019 2000 sculptures, 2600 paintings, 300,000 prints, 150,000 photographs, 10,000 archaeological pieces ... The Carnavalet Museum is the memory of Paris. From the Gallic tribe of the Parisii and the prehistoric canoes found in the Bercy district, to the first photographs of Paris by Émile Atget, passing by the keys of the Bastille and even a lock of Louis XVI's hair, the museum tells the story the turbulent history of the French capital. Or rather "recounts", because the museum is closed for renovation until the end of 2019, only to reopen in 2020. Misfortune! So how to discover the extreme richness of this story, and how to take its pain in patience while the museum gets a new look? Not wanting to leave its orphaned visitors, the Carnavalet Museum has set up a series of guided tours and lectures on many themes. These activities outside the walls take the curious to stroll in several districts of Paris. One has the spoiled choice of: strolls "the Paris of writers", with among others the Paris of Victor Hugo or the Paris of Proust; Walks devoted to a historical period: medieval Paris, the Paris of the Revolution; Or even neighborhood walks, around Montmartre, Les Halles or the Grange aux Belles. Indeed, the streets of Paris are perhaps the best place to discover the history of the city. If it explores with delight in a museum, this story is also discovered with the nose in the wind, in this open-air museum that is the City of Lights. Besides, times have changed, and the institution Paris Museums has come to the fore. The museum becomes portable and interactive: we can now download the Paris app au Fil de la Seine to discover the history of Paris by strolling along the river banks. From Saint-Louis Island to the Alexandre III bridge, we discover the anecdotes that made history, and we superimpose today's selfies and works of yesterday. For a "note card" side that may not be useless sometimes, we will go and cram secretly fast the chronological adjustment of Paris Info. In addition to recalling the dates, the site also offers, much more playful, a walk in Paris that makes us walk the city from the Gallo-Roman antiquity with the Arènes de Lutèce to the new district of the National Library of France, very recent. For the history of Paris continues to be written! Other museums to discover the history of Paris Yet a stay in Paris cannot be entirely without museums... There are others than just the Carnavalet Museum, which remain open. Cognacq-Jay Museum For those who associate Paris with the refinement of the 18th century, the Cognacq-Jay Museum is the perfect destination. It gathers, in the sumptuous hotel of Donon, the legacy of Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise Jay. The Cognacq-Jay couple are themselves part of the history of Paris since they are the founders of the La Samaritaine store. Art-lovers of the 18th century, they collect during their entire life paintings, sculptures, drawings, pieces of furniture, jewelry and knick-knacks. Museum Cognacq-Jay - 8 rue Elzévir, 75003 - Open from 10 am to 6 pm, Tuesday to Sunday - Closed on Mondays - Saint-Paul metro, Chemin-Vert, Rambuteau - free entry for the permanent collection, the museum is unfortunately not accessible to people with reduced mobility. Jacquemart-André Museum The Jacquemart-André museum houses the collection of another art-loving couple Édouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart. André was the heir of one of the greatest fortunes of the Second Empire, and had served in the personal guard of Napoleon III: once again, the small story joins the great and the founder of the museum which fascinates as much by his personal journey as by his legacy. In the sumptuous setting of the mansion which André built at great expense in 1868, there are many paintings and works of art. We are interested in the place itself as well as in the magnificent art collections, which bring together Italian primitives, French 18th century artists (Fragonard, Vigée-Lebrun), Dutch artists (Rembrandt, Van Ruysdael) and English artists (Joshua Reynolds). In order to respect the wishes of Nélie Jacquemart, the layout of the premises has been maintained as it is: one thus strolls in the rooms as they were inhabited by the Jacquemart-André couple, and the museum is also the witness of a lifestyle luxurious under the Second Empire. Musée Jacquemart-André - 158 boulevard Haussmann, 75008 - Open every day from 10 am to 6 pm, nocturne on Monday until 8:30 pm during exhibition period - Saint-Augustin, Miromesnil or Saint-Philippe du Roule metro - entrance 13,50 € - purchase the ticket online on the museum's website for a direct access. National Museum of Medieval ages – Thermes de Cluny The National Museum of the Medieval Ages found the perfect setting in the Hotel de Cluny. The magnificent building was formerly the residence of the powerful monastic order of Cluny. It is built from 1485 in the Gothic style, but as early as the 13th century the order of Cluny had nearby a college for the education of its novices. The chapel, which dates from the 15th century, is an architectural jewel, with its extremely graceful and richly carved vault. The museum houses an extraordinary collection of medieval art, including the splendid tapestry of the Lady with the Unicorn. Museum of the Middle Ages - 6, place Paul Painlevé, 75005 - open every day from 9.15 am to 5.45 pm except Tuesdays (ticketing until 5.15 pm) - 8 €, 6 € reduced price, free on the first Sunday of each month Cluny-La Sorbonne or Saint-Michel. The Museum of Montmartre Do you know the black cat, the Art Deco cat that can be found everywhere on souvenirs, posters, umbrellas, fridge magnets, mugs ... Discover the original, the famous poster designed by Steinlein for the Cabaret du Chat Noir , At the Montmartre Museum. Close to the Place du Tertre and yet so far from its hustle and bustle of tourists, the museum transports its visitors to the heart of the Bohemian Montmartre from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There is also Renoir's garden: Renoir rented a studio for two years in the building that now houses the museum, and the garden has been recreated as shown on many paintings by the Impressionist painter. The museum presents a superb collection of works and testimonies from Modigliani, Maurice Utrillo, Suzanne Valadon, Toulouse-Lautrec and many others. Museum of Montmartre - 12 rue Cortot, 75018 - open every day, all year from 10 am to 6 pm and until 7 pm from April to September - Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro - from 9,5 € to 11 € depending on the exhibitions. Museum of the Préfecture de Police The Museum of the Prefecture de Police traces the history of the police forces of Paris, since their creation under Louis XIV. Paris in the seventeenth century was a bustling metropolis whose sovereign knew too well the rebellious spirit from the Fronde which forced him, still a child, to flee the capital. The Sun King forces Colbert to organize a modern police force, and this is the beginning of a fascinating history that reflects the evolutions of the city. The important reforms brought about by the successive lieutenants shaped the face of Paris: the introduction of street lighting in the 18th century was due to the police and helped to make Lutetia the City of Light and the establishment of a file with the techniques of Alphonse Bertillon, marked the beginnings of the scientific police at the end of the 19th century. The museum also features a history of criminality and punishment for criminals. This part of the collection, nicknamed "Crime Museum", is often cold in the back... Museum of the Prefecture of Police - 4, rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, 75005 - metro Maubert-Mutualité - open Monday to Friday from 9:30 am to 5 pm - free admission.Read more
Soul food, a taste of the South of the United States If you are told "American fried chicken", what do you think about? No, no, not the fast-food brand of Kentucky ... The fried chicken is one of the pillars of the soul food, that like soul music, belongs to the culture of African-Americans. Soul food is the rich and copious family cuisine of the south of the United States, the flavors of childhood remembered with stars in the eyes. It is also a cuisine that carries the terrible fate of American slaves: inspired by their saved African heritage as best they can, despite their uprooting and suffering, Soul food is a popular cuisine, with ingredients and humble preparations always invigorating. The least we can say is that this is not cuisine for people in a diet. We find the fried chicken with fermented milk, of course, but also the sweet corn bread, sweet potatoes and fried plantain, and among others "hush puppies". Traditional soul food makes great use of lard... However, there are also typical vegetables like okra, forage cabbage or collard greens. You can also add the authentic chitterlings, a stew of guts... At first glance, nothing to do with the much-praised refinement of French cuisine - and yet, thanks to particular historical circumstances, African-American soul food has seen its splendid hours in Paris... Discovered from a forgotten episode of the Franco-American history and its descendants. Chez Haynes, The restaurant of the African-American community In Paris, during the roaring Twenties that followed the horrors of the Second World War were years of liberation in more ways than one. For the African American GI soldiers who came to fight in Europe, the discovery of Paris was also the discovery of a city which, although it was of course not exempt from racism, gave them much more freedom than their native country. At that time, segregation was still in force in the southern states. The struggle for civil rights eventually led to their abolition, but not until 1965. In France, on the other hand, nothing prevented a black man from marrying a white Frenchwoman, and that was what Leroy Haynes did. After the armistice, this athletic American stayed in France instead of returning to the United States. He met Gabrielle Lecarbonnier, whom he married in 1949. They opened Gabby and Haynes on rue Manuel. After their divorce, Leroy re-opens Chez Haynes on rue Clauzel, at the bottom of the butte Montmartre. His restaurant on rue Manuel became the high place of American black culture in Paris. Intellectuals and black artists, visiting or settling in Paris, met there: The writers James Baldwin, Richard Wright and Chester Himes, painter Beauford Delaney, musicians Louis Armstrong, Sidney Bechet, Cab Calloway, Count Basie and Miles Davies. A colorful personality, Leroy Haynes is also an actor in his hours and plays in several gangster movies. We see him in Three rooms in Manhattan, directed by Marcel Carné, in 1965, and in a film by Michel Audiard in 1971: Le cri du cormoran, le soir au-dessus des jonques. Paris an orphan of soul food? Not so fast! After the disappearance of Leroy Haynes in 1986, his third wife Maria, of Portuguese origin, continues to serve at the restaurant Haynes the cuisine that made the restaurant famous. For 23 years she kept intact the flame of soul food, while trying to renew the menu by offering Brazilian dishes. Unfortunately, the great hours of Chez Haynes now belong to the past: the Afro-American community in Paris is no longer numerous and the mythical evenings where black Power writers and jazzmen met were no more than a memory. The restaurant closes its doors in 2009, and with it turns an important page of Afro-American history in Paris. For a few years, not much new in American cooking. Fast-foods continued their inexorable expansion, offering ill-informed Frenchmen the illusion of eating "truly" American. At the time, we could have consoled ourselves by trying to bring home another dish of the soul food, which reflects the mixed history of the United States: the cornbread. This bread was originally a Native American recipe, which was adopted and enriched, to become a typical American recipe, particularly prized in Southern cuisine. The corn bread is traditionally made with bacon fat, but you can quite try a lighter version of cornbread! Too often the French still believe that there is no American gastronomy - the prejudices that make the hamburger-fries the national dish remain. This symbol of "junk food" detested by gourmet Gaulois has however little to do with the American cuisine of gourmets. And if the fried chicken may seem to some a bit too similar to a certain fast food menu, it is necessary to get rid of these ideas. In recent years, young American restaurateurs have had the audacity (some ghastly spirits would say effrontery) to come as far as the land of France to show what the Yankees (nickname French give to Americans) are capable of. This is the case of Chief Braden Perkins, born in New Orleans - one could say that soul food is part of its genetic heritage. After the success of his first restaurant Hidden Kitchen, he opens in 2011 a new restaurant, Verjus, always with his partner Laura Adrian. Verjus is a chic restaurant whose tasting menu changes with the seasons and inspirations of the chef, and in a more informal wine bar. Fried Chicken with ribot milk, cabbage salad and jalapeno peppers is a revisited and more refined version of the big classic. Moreover, Verjus's success not contradicting itself, Braden Perkins recidivated with Ellsworth, a little further on the same street. Again, we find an authentic fried chicken accompanied by marinated vegetables, because we do not change a team that wins so well. Restaurant Verjus - 52, rue de Richelieu, 75001 - Monday to Friday from 7 pm to 11 pm - Pyramides, Palais Royal, Bourse or Quatre Septembre metro Restaurant Ellsworth - 34, rue de Richelieu, 75001 - opening hours: lunch, 12:15 to 14:15; Dinner, 7 pm to 10.30 pm; Brunch, 11:30 am to 3 pm - metro Pyramides or Palais Royal The soul food revisited: The African and Caribbean heritage at the time of crossbreeding Moreover, faithful to its African and Caribbean roots, soul food is reborn in Paris in a version that could be called "French". Inspired by the inspiration of their own heritage, French restaurateurs do not hesitate to present their personal version of this family cuisine. It would not be the first time that the French, spurred by American fashions, are encouraged to rediscover a neglected part of their own heritage. Gumbo Yaya has opted to specialize in: fried chicken and authentically American waffles, the combo is so popular that it is not uncommon to have to wait an hour to be served ... Yet, according to guests, the Game is worth the candle, and the long wait is forgotten when you bite into the crispy waffles, sprinkled with various sauces. Lionel, the owner, worships fried chicken with fermented milk, in memory of his American aunts who fed him with soul food in Macon, near Atlanta. Gumbo Yaya - 3, rue Charles Bobin, 75010 - Opening hours: from 12h to 14h30 and from 19h30 to 22h30, closed on Saturdays and Sundays - Colonel Fabien metro. The New Soul Food truck, on the other hand, presents a resolutely melting-pot cuisine, "afrodisiac" according to the words of its creator, Rudy Laine. There we find the sacrosanct chicken, but revisited in sub-Saharan or Caribbean fashion. Rudy's Cameroonian and Guadeloupian origins inspire flavors, braised chicken curry sauce coco vanilla, plantains peanut sauce, cassava attiéké sauce yassa, or the fish miondo safou. We follow greedily the food truck in Paris, but again, the greedy have given themselves the word and it will be necessary to arrive early to avoid long lines! New Soul Food food truck - often in front of the mk2 Library, find the schedule on the website – the location: mk2 Library, metro Bibliothèque François Mitterrand or Quai de la Gare As for Niébé, the name of the restaurant celebrates the cornille, a bean called "black eyed pea" in the United States, which is also an integral part of soul food. Chef Rosilène Vitorino draws soul food to Brazil and its tropical flavors. The restaurant offers its menu in two versions, classic and vegan - what allow vegetarians to discover these unique flavors, without fried chicken and lard! Restaurant Niébé - 16 rue de la Grande-Chaumière, 75006 - open from Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 3 pm and from 7.30 pm to midnight - Vavin metroRead more
They will soon close their doors, definitively drawing the curtain over rare works of art or unpublished collections. Many major exhibitions end in Paris will end in February or March, do not delay any longer to walk the paths of Parisian museums! To the Louis Vuitton Foundation From October 2016 until March 5th, 2017, the glass liner signed Frank Gehry hosts the prestigious collection of modern art by the Russian patron Sergei Shchukin. The exhibition "Icons of Modern Art: The Shchukin Collection" is deployed on all the museum's spaces created by Bernard Arnault, CEO of the LVMH group: you will discover 160 masterpieces among which paintings and sculptures Of Braque, Cézanne, Degas, Gauguin, Maillol, Marquet, Matisse, Monet, Pissarro, Picasso, Renoir and Signac ... but also the creations of Russian avant-garde artists such as Malévitch, Kliou, Tatline, Rodchenko... At the Palais Galliera Who carries what? This is the question asked by the Paris fashion museum, Palais Galliera, through the “Anatomy of a collection” that ends on February 12, 2017. From the dress worn in royal courts to the blue collard attire, between anonymous and celebrities, The exhibition unites about one hundred pieces of clothing and accessories to decipher the fashion from eighteenth century to the present day. A real journey through time, which traces the customs of the court of Marie-Antoinette or unveils the favorite outfits of Audrey Hepburn or Sarah Bernhardt... Modern art Museum of the city of Paris Until March 5th, the Museum of Modern Art devotes an exhibition to Bernard Buffet (1928-1999), one of the most famous French painters of the 20th century but also one of the most controversial. About one hundred art pieces are presented, retracing his favorite themes: clowns of course, but also religious, mythological or literary cycles. At the Musée d’Orsay This following exhibition also ends the 5th of March, about Frédéric Bazille held at the Musée d'Orsay, which highlights the work of this young artist who died in combat at only 28 years of age but who in a few years inherited us some amazing masterpieces. A genius in the making, he was at the origin of Impressionism. Organized in a thematic and chronological way at the same time, the journey combines the works of Bazille with those of his contemporaries such as Delacroix, Courbet, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Fantin-Latour, Guigou, Scholderer and Cézanne. At the musée des Arts Décoratifs We no longer present Jean Nouvel, a world-renowned French architect, who, beyond his buildings, was also distinguished by his realization of furniture and everyday objects. It is in this lesser-known facet of the architect that the Museum of Decorative Arts unveils until February 12th, exhibiting his pieces of iconic furniturRead more